Nu Skin scientists Helen Knaggs, Ph.D., vice president of Nu Skin global research and development, and Remona Gopaul, had an article published in the July issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, a leading information source for researchers and scientists in the cosmetic and personal care industry.
The article focused on research that shows the effect of salicin, an active ingredient unique to Nu Skin ageLOC skin care products, on the expression of specific proteins that are known to protect cells from damage caused by stressful conditions, including UV exposure.
The proteins, known as heat shock proteins (HSPs), are expressed in all organisms in response to elevated temperatures and other external stress factors. The proteins protect cells, and also work with newly formed proteins to ensure proper functioning and interact with other molecules to help repair cells. These roles make HSPs an important target for topical ingredients that address skin aging, repair and protection from damaging conditions.
The study concluded that salicin not only induced the expression of certain HSPs and HSP regulators, but also down regulated genes that inhibit HSP expression. This dual-action approach to influencing the activity of specific HSPs provides a comprehensive mechanism of action in protecting cells from stress-induced damage.
“This study is one of several projects that the R&D team has successfully published to validate Nu Skin’s ageLOC approach of improving the appearance of skin by resetting the expression of genes associated with youthful skin,” said Knaggs.
Nu Skin’s ageLOC science targets the sources of aging by identifying youth gene clusters and using active ingredients that have the ability to reset youthful activity patterns of those gene clusters.
Here is an excerpt of the full article in Cosmetics & Toiletries:
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/ingredient/antiirritant/97333359.htmlReducing Skin Stress Response with Willow Bark-derived SalicinBy: Remona Gopaul and Helen Knaggs, PhD, Nu Skin Global Research and Development; Anna Langerveld, PhD, Genemarkers LLC
Posted: June 28, 2010, from the July 2010 issue of C&T Magazine.
Heat shock proteins (HSPs) are functional proteins ubiquitously expressed in all organisms. Their expression is induced by elevated temperatures and other external stress factors.1 Research has shown that HSPs have several functions; for example, their expression protects cells from stress-induced damage.2 HSPs also act as molecular chaperones that bind to newly formed proteins to mediate their folding into the correct shape, ensuring proper functioning. In addition, they function in transport activities, interact with other molecules1 and mediate cellular apoptosis.3 Since HSPs play a significant role in regulating the processes associated with cellular protection and repair, they are an important target for topical ingredients that address skin aging, repair and/or protection from damaging conditions.
HSPs are classified by their molecular weight, size, structure and function. They are divided into several families, including: HSP100, HSP90, HSP70, HSP60, HSP40 and small heat shock proteins (sHSP). Recent skin research has focused on HSP70 and HSP27, a member of the sHSPs, which are predominantly expressed in keratinocytes. HSP27 expression increases simultaneously with keratinocyte differentiation and is considered a biomarker for cellular turnover in the epidermis.1 HSP70 helps to prevent melanocytes from undergoing apoptosis3 and since melanocytes protect cells from UV exposure, this could prevent skin damage caused by UV exposure.
Lab Practical: Formulating with Salicin
* Salicin is a water-soluble white powder that can be employed in various aqueous delivery systems in gels, emulsions and suspensions.
* Levels other than 0.5% have not been validated to deliver the benefits detailed in the present research.
* Salicin is stable in its natural form and in solution; it has a shelf life of two years.
* Salicin is not self-preserved. As such, Gram-negative and Gram-positive preservation systems are recommended for salicin-containing formulations.
* The addition of glycols is also recommended for increased efficacy and stability.
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